Bringing the kitchen out of the Dark Ages!

Here’s what we started out with:


The cabinets are all dark “hardwood” laminate, and with one small window and two single-bulb light fixtures, this was a dark, gloomy kitchen. The first thing my husband did was replace the single-bulb fixtures for me. Here’s the before:

Original fixtures

Both fixtures had textured glass globes over them. Neither cast much light. I happened to find two-bulb brushed nickel fixtures at Costco selling in a package of two for only $14.39 — can’t beat that deal! Flush-mount ceiling fixtures usually run about $29.95 or higher each, depending on the size. So this was better than a two-for-one deal. Here’s the after:

New kitchen light

You’ll see in later photos that going from two one-bulb fixtures to two of these made a huge difference. While he was at it, my husband also replaced the dark wooden ceiling fan in the living room with a bright white one. We are fortunate to have a family member who gives us hand-me-down fixtures and home dec items from time to time after a remodel, so we’ve gotten a lot of wonderful pieces we can use in our own home. But you don’t have to have a relative who itches to redo every year to find good bargains! Lowe’s has a wide variety of inexpensive ceiling fans that work nicely for under $50.

Once I had good lighting in place, I went ahead and primed the kitchen walls. Because I knew I’d be covering the white linoleum and tiling the countertops, I didn’t have to worry about drips or use dropcloths. I just went at it and got two coats of primer over the striped vinyl “wallpaper” and all the trim. Before refacing the cabinets, I put one coat of latex semi-gloss on the crown moulding over the two coats of primer. All of this took a grand total of three hours over a couple of days (I did other things while the coats were drying).

Now I was ready to begin in earnest on the kitchen cabinets. First I used my power drill to remove all of the hinges and hardware from the lower doors and the pulls from the drawers (I’d need help to get the upper doors off). The hinges used a square bit, which I didn’t have, but I was able to borrow one from our landlord. I’d read that hinges more than ten years old should be discarded, since the plastic piece that helps the cabinet close by itself wears out with years of use. I’d found this to be true, so I had already requested replacement hinges when I purchased Cabinet Rescue. The company that sells the paint also offers replacement hinges just for mobile home cabinets in a variety of finishes. I went with brushed nickel to match the lighting fixtures. I got a deal on hinges when I purchased three pints of the paint, so I ended up getting about 20 hinges for free. I searched around online for cabinet pulls and drawer pulls to match, knowing I didn’t want to pay full price for those. I found these beautiful satin nickel pulls from Modular Kitchen Cabinets:

When I purchased them, they were $1.13 each, so they’ve gone up a bit since then, but they’re still cheaper than the $2.27 retail listed (and pulls like these at Lowe’s were $2.88 each). I knew I wanted cup pulls for the drawers, but I was appalled by the prices, even on discount sites. I finally turned to eBay and was tickled pink to discover satin nickel cup pulls for only $1.89 (compared to $10.89 retail) from Your Home Supply:

After removing the lower cabinet doors, I washed them all thoroughly with “RedMax,” an industrial-strength degreaser, to remove any food and grease remnants (paint won’t adhere well over those). RedMax is a non-smelly, non-caustic degreaser I found at Lowe’s, and it worked wonders. After the doors had dried, I took my orbital sander with #200 paper in place and roughed up the front surface of each door, as explained in the how-to instructions from Decotime. Finally, I wiped down each door and drawer front with a tack cloth to remove any residue from sanding. Now I was ready to paint!

I laid all the cabinet doors out on the countertop with a couple on a dropcloth on the floor when I ran out of room. I stirred the Cabinet Rescue paint, poured it into a small paint tray, then took my high-density foam roller and began. I was amazed at how nicely the first coat went on and pleasantly surprised at how uniform the surface looked when it dried. There were no visible roller marks at all. In the picture you see the kitchen in progress. This went amazingly fast. I ended up putting three coats on everything, which created a nice, solid white finish. I found that it is absolutely necessary to let the doors dry flat rather than standing them up to dry. The paint cannot drip when the door is lying flat! I accidentally stood one door up too soon and ended up having to let it dry completely so I could go back and sand off the drips and do it over again. Far better to let things dry thoroughly while flat before moving them. When the lower cabinet doors were dry enough to stand up, I painted the upper cabinet fronts (which my husband had taken down, degreased, and sanded).

Here you see the cabinet front next to the refrigerator. This is after one coat of Cabinet Rescue. I had to be extra careful to watch for drips on the cabinet fronts, since they obviously have to dry upright. I was fortunate to be able to do all of this refacing work while we were still living in our other house. It would have been tough to manage a kitchen re-do while trying to prepare meals! My children enjoyed a lot of time outdoors and played with friends next door as well, which helped. I did most of the work during afternoon naptime while the littlest ones were down and at night after the children had gone to bed (we camped out in the trailer a couple of times and ate picnic-style for breakfast and lunch the following day!).

Cabinet Rescue dries very quickly, so it doesn’t take long to get all three coats in place. However, once you have the final coat on, the paint has to dry 72 hours to achieve a hard, chip-resistant surface. This was not a problem, since it took me a week to get back to the trailer and finish up. By the time I returned, the paint was smooth and hard, and we were ready to install the new cabinet hardware and rehang the doors. I brought a friend from church with me who spent the afternoon screwing on all the hardware while I went ahead and painted two coats of my buttercream paint on the kitchen walls (taping off the cabinets and trim first). With that color in place, the white cabinets really popped, and we were so excited to see things coming together. At left you can see the first two cabinet pulls in place. The drawer pulls took a little bit of work, since they required a bit of drilling on the drawer fronts for them to lie flush against the surface. The hole that the screw goes in sticks out beyond the edge of the drawer pull, so I simply drilled a shallow hole the same size in the drawer front. When the pull was screwed in place, it lay nice and flat against the drawer front.

Once we had all the hardware and hinges attached to the doors, it was time to rehang them. I thought this would be harder than taking them off, but it was actually much easier. I think taking off ten-year-old hinges with rusty screws is a lot harder than going back in with new screws! You can see the lower cabinet doors back in place on the peninsula in this shot, as well as one of the drawers. The remaining cabinet doors rest on the countertop below their spots. And that reminds me of a very important point: Before removing them, you want to mark the backs of all your doors and drawers so that you know where they came from! I marked all the upper peninsula doors with “U P 1,” “U P 2,” etc. and all the lower peninsula doors with “L P 1,” “L P 2,” etc. I had a system for each section of cabinets and marked accordingly. The drawers I simply numbered one through nine, starting on the left and going clockwise around the room. I didn’t mark the cabinets with corresponding letters and numbers, trusting that I’d remember what my numbering system meant when I went to replace everything. I only got confused once, and then I was able to figure out where the errant door went by process of elimination!

Here are some shots of the finished cabinets:

What a change! And the cost for this total cabinet/wall/light fixture makeover? $160.73 (that includes s/h for online purchases). Hard to believe, isn’t it? Replacing cabinets would run about $5,000 in a kitchen this size. Having them professionally refaced would be about $2,500. Throw in your own elbow grease, and you can do a total kitchen makeover on the cheap! Next time I’ll show you how we covered the old white linoleum for a totally new, up-to-date look that will stand much more wear and tear!

56 Responses to “Bringing the kitchen out of the Dark Ages!”

  1. 1 marti September 14, 2008 at 5:17 pm

    Does the cabinets look like they were painted, or do they look like they were bought in the white color. From the photos, they really look nice. Good job.
    Also, can the cabinet rescue be changed to a darker color?
    Thank you.

  2. 2 queenofmytrailer September 22, 2008 at 4:01 am


    I just found your comment. The finished cabinets look professional — like they came that way. You wouldn’t know they were repainted unless I told you. Everyone who sees them comments on how beautiful they look. That’s all due to Cabinet Rescue paint!

    Finally, yes, you can have the paint tinted to any shade you like. You just take the paint to Wal-Mart, Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc. and have them add the tinting and shake up the can. Piece of cake!

  3. 3 LISA October 2, 2008 at 12:04 pm

    where do you find this paint and is it expensive

  4. 4 queenofmytrailer October 5, 2008 at 2:41 am

    The Cabinet Rescue paint is very reasonably priced when you consider how little you need to do a big room! I bought two quarts and ended up using only one and a half. I plan to use the extra paint to redo the hall bathroom cabinets one of these days.

    You can get Cabinet Rescue at for $19.95 a quart, but check first, since that site will tell you if any retailers carry the paint in your area (and then you wouldn’t have to pay for shipping).

    Again, this might seem expensive for a quart, but it takes so little paint to get the results you want. I did three coats on every cabinet front, all doors, and all drawers, and it still only took a quart and a half for this large kitchen. It’s just great stuff!

  5. 5 George October 19, 2008 at 11:36 pm

    Thanks for all the wonderful information. I plan on redoing
    my kitchen soon. I have already orderednew countertops. I plan
    on using cabinet rescue tinted with a medium gray color. It will
    probably be about 3 weeks before my countertops are in, so I’ll
    have a couple of weekends to work on painting. I was glasd to hear
    the high density foam roller works so well because I really didn’t want the expense or hassle of a paint sprayer. I also love the cup pulls, I will be using them also but I paib about $5 for each one of 7. All in all I have 24 doors to paint plus the cabinet facings.
    Thanks again for the info and the oictures look amazing.

    George in Lakeland Florida

  6. 6 Hollie January 6, 2009 at 8:24 pm

    I’m so glad to have pass by your site. it has helped me so much. we have been wanting to redo the aweful cabinets in out trailer. those prefab designs are so outdated.

  7. 7 NcJ1979 January 12, 2009 at 4:38 pm

    Thank you so much for posting this! I’ve been wanting to paint my old kitchen cabinets since we moved into this house last year. Everyone told me it wouldn’t be worth all the work and that it would come out looking hideous. You’ve convinced me that it CAN be done!
    Did you also try this with a bathroom vanity?

    My question is.. would someone with little paint experience be able to pull this off? I’m not clueless, but not a professional, either!

  8. 8 queenofmytrailer January 26, 2009 at 5:16 am

    You CAN do it! It really doesn’t take a lot of paint experience–just elbow-grease and a willingness to do all the steps. Don’t skip any of them if you want top-quality results. De-greasing the cabinets thoroughly is vitally important to start out. The paint just won’t adhere nicely if you have greasy spots or streaks. Also check for Scotch tape. I missed a piece that was on one of our drawers, and the paint has since chipped off that one spot. I will have to photograph it and do a cabinet paint update! You can definitely use Cabinet Rescue in the bathroom. That is on my list of big projects down the road. The pre-cleaning job will be really important in the bathroom, as cleaners, soaps, shampoos, etc. splash and leave residue. Clean and sand, and you’ll be ready to paint. I’m no professional myself; I just can’t stand the thought of paying through the nose for a paint job that can be done with determination on my own! 😉 Have fun painting!

  9. 9 rachel March 16, 2009 at 5:52 pm

    hi, WOW! they really look great. my husband and i are arguing over what to do with our kitchen. we have some cheap stock laminant cabinants and there is pleny of room to add more. our first problem is to just add more is impossible because the new stock cabs. does not match the existing ones. so he wants to buy all new!! but i think we should just buy the closest color wood in stock and paint them all. do you think this product would work on regular stock cabinents from home depo or lowes?
    thanks rachel

  10. 10 queenofmytrailer March 18, 2009 at 12:11 am

    Hi, Rachel! Yes, Cabinet Rescue paint will work on any laminate cabinet surface. You could easily get all your cabinets to match if you buy the closest shape you can to the cabinets that already exist, then sand and paint them all the same shade. Sounds like a great, money-saving plan to me!

  11. 11 Diane March 20, 2009 at 2:30 am

    Did you prime the cabinets before painting? Did you paint both sides of the doors and lastly, did you have any problem with paint on the edges leaving a ridge on the oppisite side of the doors. I have painted ONE door and had that problem. Any suggestions.
    From what I saw your cabinets look great!

  12. 12 queenofmytrailer March 20, 2009 at 9:31 pm

    Hi, Diane!

    With cabinet rescue, you do NOT prime before painting. The paint IS the primer, too. 🙂 I did not paint both sides of the doors, as I didn’t care about the insides being wood-colored, and it would have taken a lot more time (and paint) to do the job that way. But you certainly could do it–more power to ya! If you use the dense foam roller, you won’t have a problem with ridges. The paint dries quickly and, as long as the doors are lying flat, they won’t drip. 😀

  13. 13 Corsophoto April 7, 2009 at 6:55 pm

    Just re-doing my workroom. It had old Formica cabinets which were useful, but heinously ugly old wanna-be wood. Cabinet rescue covered it up well in 2 coats. If I wanted them all white, I would use 3 coats also, but bought an orange alkyd paint.
    In response to the last post, Cabinet Rescue can be tinted to pastel colors, but I wanted a bright juicy orange which is not possible. I was told you can paint over cabinet rescue, but I am choosing to wait at least 72 hours before I paint over it.
    Then, you have to wait 20 days for the final cure.
    I wish there was a phone number on the can so I could ask someone if it would be just as durable if Cabinet Rescue could be painted over in a darker, more saturated color.

  14. 14 Corsophoto April 7, 2009 at 7:02 pm

    Lowe’s has quarts for $15.98

  15. 15 queenofmytrailer April 8, 2009 at 2:22 am

    That’s interesting about the color limits for tinting Cabinet Rescue. I hadn’t heard of that and would like to see where the information came from. Seems to me it shouldn’t matter what color you tint the paint? At any rate, I am positive you can paint over Cabinet Rescue. It would make a fantastic primer. 🙂

  16. 16 Diane April 9, 2009 at 2:16 pm

    I have another question. Compared to other finishes, would you say the finish of the paint you used is, glossy, semi-glossy, or satin? I am still debating what to do with my cabinet doors.

  17. 17 queenofmytrailer April 9, 2009 at 4:12 pm

    Hi, Marti! The cabinets look like they came in that color (until you open the door and see the insides!). The finish is very smooth–looks sprayed or baked on rather than rolled. Cabinet Rescue can be tinted at any paint store. Someone else made the comment that you could only use pastel tints, but I’ve never read that anywhere else, so I’m not sure about its accuracy. I’d assume you could tint it any way you liked, since tinting doesn’t change the make-up of the paint itself, and very little tint is needed to change the color. Hope this helps!

  18. 18 queenofmytrailer April 9, 2009 at 4:14 pm

    Hi, Diane! The finish of the paint is very smooth and satiny to the touch — but there’s no high-gloss sheen to it. It’s like satin wall paint. When you use the high-density foam roller and dry the cabinets flat, the finish hardens to look like a professional finish done at a factory. It looks like the original finish and not painted over. 🙂

  19. 19 Lisa April 16, 2009 at 4:04 pm

    This looks great! My husband and I are beginning to remodel our kitchen. What type of countertops do you have. We need to replace ours and I really don’t like the laminate because of scratches.

  20. 20 queenofmytrailer April 18, 2009 at 3:55 am

    Hi, Lisa! Scroll on forward to the posts on tiling the countertops, and you can see how I covered the laminate! 😀

  21. 21 shannon April 20, 2009 at 4:57 pm

    This kitchen inspires me and I keep coming back to this page! (Actually, Proverbs 13:4 inspired me just a little more.)

    Cabinet Rescue is on my list of things to do now. You said you only used one can for your whole kitchen? hmmm.

  22. 22 queenofmytrailer April 21, 2009 at 8:31 pm

    Hi, Shannon! So glad you’ve enjoyed my kitchen re-do. As I note in the post, I bought three pints of Cabinet Rescue, but I only needed one and a little bit of the second one. I have a can and 3/4 left over for touch-ups later if needed. 😀

  23. 23 George August 7, 2009 at 10:07 am

    Hello all,
    Just wanted to comment on the tinting mentioned earlier. I wanted to use a med-dark gray and was not able to. There was not enough room in the can for the amount of tint required, so I went with a lighter shade, no problem. Also the paint tech at Home Depot said he was not allowed to spill some to make more room for tint. On the can it actually does say under directions in the tinting section “can be tinted to pastel colors and upper mid colors.” I bought 2 cans and was able to finish all my cabinets which includes 24 doors inside and out, facings and 7 drawers. I had 1/2 can left.I replaced all hinges and all pulls. Had a new countertop installed and I tiled the backsplash myself. Overall, I think the job took me about 4 months. I mainly worked on it on weekends. But I have to say it is the difference between night and day. The kitchen looks great and with the foam rollers there are no marks, it just looks very even. I wish I could post pictures. Like was said before, prep works is important. I sanded each door front and back. Plan your job well, don’t rush and you will be satisfied at the end with your hard work. Good Luck

  24. 24 queenofmytrailer August 8, 2009 at 7:40 am

    This is fantastic information, George — and congrats on finishing your kitchen re-do! 🙂

  25. 25 Vivi, Cleveland, Ohio September 2, 2009 at 8:37 pm

    Your kitchen looks fantastic.
    You’ve inspired me to do the same but in the opposite direction:
    I have a snow white kitchen and would like to add some color. So I’ll look at the mid-upper tone colors.
    Thanks for your detailed report 😀

    A couple questions:
    What time of the year did you do this?
    Does the outside temperature make a huge difference?

  26. 26 Walter Miros September 10, 2009 at 11:44 am

    I am a senior citizen and have been in the painting business about 00 years ago and I will say that your product is superb and it rejuvinate a kitchen cabinet to a infacy stage. If I was in the business I would be a person who has found a Lottery ticket. You people have a superb product and It will be a success stoy. One thing I found out that you read the initial paraphenelia first/ I did initialy washed the prevailing cabinet with trysodium phosphate and it did the Job Thank you fior making life easier

  27. 27 Daox September 10, 2009 at 5:24 pm

    Very nice update! I recently repainted my father’s kitchen from that really dark wood to an off white. It really makes a big difference.

  28. 28 chefjeff September 17, 2009 at 2:37 am

    Why is it that so many people associate the color white with ‘modern’ and ‘clean’ and ‘crisp’ etc? Agreed that when it’s first done, it may in fact look ‘new’ and ‘sharp’. However…

    In about 2 months, the overabundance of white will look drab and dingy as it collects the airborne residues from cooking. Not to mention the daily use by the occupants of the home. The oils on their skin and the very breath they exhale will add to the dinginess. Doubly so if they are smokers.

    A better solution would have been to use bolder colors, like reds and yellows, with some lighter colors as accents, knock a hole in the outside wall and put in an actual window (may require a professional if you’re not comfortable with the work yourself), and then get entirely rid of the current lighting sources. With the new window, indirect lighting would work well, but also a track lighting system that uses 75 watt bulbs. An eight foot track with about 5 lights would provide ample light, and with the track fixtures you can ‘aim’ each one right where you need it.

    The total cost would be about the same, if you do all the work yourself. And, the bolder colors will not become dingy quite so quickly.

  29. 29 queenofmytrailer September 25, 2009 at 12:27 pm

    I think it’s all a matter of taste. 😉 This Cabinet Rescue paint is totally washable and scrubbable, so we had no difficulty in keeping the cabinets clean and bright–even with seven little pairs of hands daily touching them. Ditto food grime and grease splatters. Those all came off with ease. You’d definitely have cleaning issues with flat paint, so I’d steer clear of that route entirely and stick with semi-gloss or satin (Cabinet Rescue is basically like a satin). A dark color would have overwhelmed this space, and as the trailer was rented rather than owned, we definitely didn’t have the option of busting walls out for larger windows. Changing out the lighting in these pre-fab trailers is also not easy, as the ceilings are very thin and covered with that “popcorn” textured stuff to cover seams/joints between panels. Without significant structural changes, you essentially have to leave the wiring where it is and just work with that placement. Again, what we did was meant to be on the cheap and easy enough for the average Joe rather than labor intensive and requiring step-by-step landlord approval. Had we owned the trailer, I daresay we’d have done more, but we were very happy with what we could do at a minimal cost and with our own elbow grease. 😀

  30. 30 Judy September 26, 2009 at 4:11 pm

    I love what you did to your cupboards, and excited to learn that there is a product to use to make that change. I associate white with cleanliness, and that is important to me expecially in a kitchen or bath. I recently bought a very old mobile home. With the dark paneling and dark cabinetry. I can’t wait to really brighten up the place. I can add nice colorful accent pieces to both rooms to take away some of the starkness of an all white room…. I do like the buttercream walls too!! Does Lowes, Home Depot or Walmart charge for mixing color into the paint? I might want to take the paint from bright white to light ivory.

  31. 31 Mel October 15, 2009 at 2:16 pm

    We also needed to update our kitchen without going bankrupt. We changed the counter tops for Silestone Quartz and painted the cabinets. I am so happy with the results. My kitchen is so bright and cheerfull. We don’t even haave to have the light on because the white cabinets brightens it up beautifully. It looks like a brand new kitchen. People think that we also replaced the cabinets!!! I love this paint and I recomend it if your cabinets are still in good shape.

  32. 32 mesa-arizona October 31, 2009 at 4:44 am

    I just bought a foreclosure so I have little info on the age of the kitchen cabinets. However, they less than 2 yrs-almost new. They are in the standard honey colored maple that is so common these days. I am looking to take the cabinets to white or cream, so Cabinet Rescue looks like it could work.

    My question is about sanding the honey maple cabinets. The cabinets look like they have some type of clear protectant that came with the cabinets when they were maunfactured. Is this ‘varnish’ (for lack of a better term, as I don’t know what the product is that makes the cabinet slightly glossy), the reason why one has to sand the cabinets before using Cabinet Rescue? How long should one side of a door take to sand? I am confused by what type of sandpaper to use. I see the recommendation is to go crisscross and circular…is that correct? I really want to paint cabinets but concerned this existing semi-gloss protectant will mess with application of Cabinet Rescue. Has anyone used this product on standard honey maple cabinets (dor example, cabinets ordered and purchased right from Lowe’s or Home Depot)? Thanks/

  33. 33 SHARON WELLING November 7, 2009 at 10:15 pm

    WHAT AN AMAZING PRODUCT!! We priced the cost of installing new cabinets in our kitchen and just could not afford this. A friend told me about this product. We took down all the cabninet doors and started painting. We added new handles and our kitchen looks brand new. The product does everything that it claims to do.

    We are so happy and saved about $20,000. THANK YOU THANK YOU

  34. 34 Glenda December 1, 2009 at 10:27 pm

    We just refinished our ugly cabinets and now all of our neighbors wants theirs redone. They look like new cabinets.

  35. 35 queenofmytrailer December 9, 2009 at 11:10 pm

    That’s fantastic, Glenda! Way easier and cheaper than buying new. 😀

  36. 36 queenofmytrailer December 9, 2009 at 11:11 pm

    Sharon, that is SO exciting! I bet you are so proud of yourself for putting in the elbow grease. You should send photos to the company and do a little bragging! 🙂

  37. 37 queenofmytrailer December 9, 2009 at 11:14 pm

    Hi there! Sorry to take so long to reply. Yes, the reason you sand is to scuff up that glossy layer to make the Cabinet Rescue adhere better. You do not have to prime over the “varnish” — you just have to give the cabinets a going-over with a rotary sander. I didn’t sand longer than three minutes per door, and the paint stuck fast with no problems. A rotary sander is the best, since you’ll give “tooth” to the entire door surface for the paint to stick to. That’s all you need to do! Have fun!

  38. 38 queenofmytrailer December 9, 2009 at 11:17 pm

    Well, thanks for the nice words, but Cabinet Rescue isn’t “my product” — it’s just one I am happy to recommend!

  39. 39 Daniel January 9, 2010 at 11:48 am

    Glissen Gripper helps the paint “grip” to your laminate surface, read it here

    should i use this instead of sanding?

  40. 40 Rhonda January 15, 2010 at 5:54 pm

    We purchased a doublewide manufactured home about 10 years ago. My husband and I are going to redo my entire house! Put in hardwood floors, tile in the bathrooms, etc…

    I ran across this website, and really like some of the things you are doing with your house. My question to you is about your kitchen. My cabinets are brown, and they are the particle board. I don’t like the white cabinets, but not sure about painting them brown? Have you got any suggestions??

    Thank you for all your advice you are giving. There just are not alot of articles for re-doing a double wide trailer??

  41. 41 Judy January 27, 2010 at 10:46 pm

    I am totally delighted with how Cabinet Rescue has reserected my kitchen cabinets. Due to a sickness in the family I was not able to complete the kitchen. I only competed 1/3 of the kitchen and am now working on the remainder of the cabinets.

    The finish looks professonal. I followed the instruction to the letter and the results was just what I wanted.

    I didn’t have funds to buy new hindges, handles and knobs so I cleaned the old ones with a degreaser. Then I sanded them lightley. After they were dry I took a used cardboard box and poked small holes in the top to put the screws for the hendges, the knobs and handles in the holes. I then painted them with 2 coats of Krylon Brushed Metallic Satin Nickel paint, letting each coat throughly dry before applying another coat.

    Since the hindges are partically exposed and the screws are exposed I had to paint them. The look like new!
    Everyone who has seen the finished cabinets can’t believe the cabinets and hardware was painted.

    I love the white cabinets. My galley style floor plan with dark old cabinets drove me crazy. It was to dark and claustrophobic. Now the kitchen looks more roomy,
    brighter and cleaner.

    I will be painting my counter tops as soon as I have finished all the cabinets. There is a kit at Lowe’s called Mondern Masters Countertop Transformations. The technique is simular to Cabinet Rescue. The end results looks like stone. I can’t want to start that project.

    When I have finished the kitchen I will submit a photo for you to see the before and after.

  42. 42 Linda February 14, 2010 at 5:09 pm

    My kitch cabinets are 30 years old but in good shape so I don’t want to replace them but they need redone. They are of the very dark – and I want them like light oak stain. I understand that I can not stain them to light color, so I wondered about painting them and if there was such a color as a oak stain color?

  43. 43 Amy April 5, 2010 at 2:50 am

    Hi, we are buying a foreclosure home in the Orlando area and wanting to re-do the laminate kitchen cabinets. I would like to add some trim to them- maybe use some 1×4 and miter the edges. My question is this: if I apply trim in the “bare wood” (unfinished) form, do I need to prime it before applying the Cabinet Rescue paint? Thanks for your help, and check back to my blog for updates on our home!

  44. 44 queenofmytrailer April 13, 2010 at 3:46 am

    Hi, Amy! You do not have to apply primer before you use Cabinet Rescue, but you may need one extra coat of Cabinet Rescue if you’re going over bare wood, since it soaks up a bit more paint. Hope this helps!

  45. 45 queenofmytrailer April 13, 2010 at 3:53 am

    Hi, Linda! You can tint the Cabinet Rescue paint, but it is a white base, so the resulting shade if you add an oak color will be “pickled oak” rather than true, clear oak brown. But, yes, you can tint it. Hope this helps!

  46. 46 queenofmytrailer April 13, 2010 at 3:54 am

    That is fantastic, Judy! Sounds like you had a total kitchen makeover — with just a little paint and elbow grease. These are my favorite kinds of stories!

  47. 47 queenofmytrailer April 13, 2010 at 3:58 am

    Hi, Rhonda! You can tint the Cabinet Rescue paint–just not very dark, as the base is white-white. You can tint them to grey, off-white, etc. A friend of mine did a creamy off-white that turned out gorgeous. The paint mixer at your local Lowe’s or Home Depot will know how much you need to add to get the right shade. Hope this helps!

  48. 48 queenofmytrailer April 13, 2010 at 4:00 am

    I think I’d stick to sanding, as Cabinet Rescue needs no primer, and sanding is free!

  49. 49 Maryann Bourgeois April 24, 2010 at 9:18 pm

    Would love to get this Cabinet Rescue, but can’t find it anywhere EXCEPT Home Depot in Florida……I am in Ohio…doesn’t help me. Where do you get it or can you buy it without ordering on line


  50. 50 queenofmytrailer May 22, 2010 at 5:11 pm

    Hi, Maryann! I’m afraid I don’t know of any other local sources for the paint. I ordered it online from the manufacturer’s site. Hope you can find it!

  51. 51 Maryann Bourgeois June 7, 2010 at 2:14 pm

    I purchased Cabinet Rescue and re-did my Bathroom Vanity. It looks great! I put new hinges and handles on in brushed nickel and wow does it look nice. I have a mobile home in Florida that I am redoing the kitchen cabinets too. Can’t wait to see how different they will look when done. I primed the bathroom vanity, but not sure if I need to on the kitchen cabinets. They are partical board that are white, but they are old. Do you think I need to prime first?

    Thanks and by the way, your kitchen looks great!

  52. 52 queenofmytrailer June 20, 2010 at 10:30 pm

    That is fantastic! I think if you are painting over raw particle board it would be wise to prime it. But it shouldn’t be necessary if the cabinets were already painted. Just rough them up with the sander and go from there. Have fun!

  53. 53 Joanne who Paints Everything July 30, 2010 at 3:41 pm

    I learned of Cabinet Rescue yesterday (from a realtor). You all speak on this site of “laminate.” My cabinets are the oak bases with the off-white/beige panels and no handles. The typical “ugly” 80’s style cabinets that were put in “everywhere.” Is this the laminate you speak of or is this a different material? And, of course, can I re-do with Cabinet Rescue?

  54. 54 Bette Arnold October 5, 2010 at 8:10 pm

    i have laminate cabinets in my doublewide home and have purchased the Cabinet Rescue. the cabinets are a smooth laminate, do I need to sand them before painting??? HELP

  55. 55 queenofmytrailer October 30, 2010 at 4:38 pm

    Hi, Bette! If the cabinets are smooth, then you do need to rough them up before painting. I show how to do this in my posts. Have fun!

  56. 56 queenofmytrailer October 30, 2010 at 4:43 pm

    Hi, Joanne! My cabinets were wood laminate, but I don’t see why Cabinet Rescue wouldn’t work on the white laminate. I’d drop them a line to ask, though. They’d be able to tell you. 🙂

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About the Queen…

Amanda Livenwell is the pen name of a stay-at-home mom who shares the adventure of living large on one income in, yes, a double-wide trailer! Join our family as we say goodbye to suburbia, trim down, and start saving to build our own home. We're going to talk about doing it yourself, living beautifully on less, making do or doing without, and counting it all joy in the process. We'll cover prep-work and painting, refacing kitchen cabinets, flooring on the cheap, tiling over laminate, upholstering furniture, and just rolling up our sleeves in general. If you love home improvement, this is the place for you. Let's get cracking!

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